The hotel I’m telling you about today has been sitting in that list of ‘places I must write about’ for many months. It was autumn of last year when I went to Henne Kirkeby Kro in Denmark. I was there to write a piece about the Danish food scene beyond Copenhagen (which you can read here). And this old coaching inn turned luxe boutique hotel was where we’d be sampling the exquisite cooking of British expat (award-winning) chef Paul Cunningham.
One day soon I will write you a piece about the epic 20-odd course meal we ate in Paul’s restaurant, within the hotel. But for now, here’s a sneak peak of my first real experience of a place that very much deserves that ‘Scandi-luxe’ label.
To get to Henne Kirkeby Kro, it’s a good few hours’ drive from Copenhagen over the water to West Jutland. The journey is largely lacking in scenery worth staying awake for (if you’re not driving) as Denmark is – as you may know – very flat.
That said, there are several highlights along the way. The first is the pretty spectacular Green Belt Suspension Bridge known as Storebæltsbroen, which takes you over the water. And eventually you arrive into an unspoilt wilderness of alpine woods and an incredible coastline where the beaches look like this.
Over the road from the hotel, a short walk along some country paths takes you to the expansive Lake Filsø that’s filled with birdlife.
We got there just in time for sunset.
At the hotel, chef Paul forages in the surrounding woods for ingredients for their food.
And onsite, they fully embrace the farm-to-fork ethos – we got a full tour of their allotments where they grow seasonal herbs, fruit and vegetables.
Their greenhouse which turns into a place to sip wine during the summer months…
They also have their own bee hives.
It was a very cold October day, so we scurried down the driveway to our rooms which were housed in a separate building known as ‘Jægerhuse’, which literally means, Hunters’ House.
Once inside the front door (all electronic key fobs) you have a very stylish corridor with a giant glass lightwell in the middle.
There are all sorts of quirky nods to its countryside setting such as this little fella. Eek.
You then open your bedroom door to one of the most stylish rooms you’ll ever stay in.
All the bedrooms are unique here. There are four or five rooms in the main building at Henne Kirkeby Kro (which we didn’t see). Then the newly added ‘Jægerhuse’ where we stayed has seven more.
We had the privilege of seeing the most expensive suite option. Take a look:
Although not quite as big, my room wasn’t far off this. It didn’t have a free-standing bath. But it did have a LOT going for it.
Huge Hästens beds that I could have slept for a day in…
Minimalist yet uber stylish furnishings…
The biggest sinks you’ve ever seen…
The biggest shower you’ve ever seen…
And plenty of Aromatherapy Associates toiletries and creature comforts… (although there was no kettle/teapot/teabags,, they did very kindly bring me some tea to my room. Even the teapot was that super cool scandi-style).
Coming from the chaos of London, the silence here was almost deafening. Imagine a night’s sleep without a single noise in the night. It was heavenly.
I overslept and woke to a bright and sunny frosty morning.
I walked over to the main house saying hello to the pigs on the way…
And had a fantastic breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and Danish rye bread back at the chef’s table where we’d eaten the night before.
The staff are wonderful here – there’s a mix of nationalities, including Danish, and one or two (including Paul) are British ex-pats so you’ll find one or two nods to the homeland such as Her Royal Majesty here…
One night just wasn’t enough at this beautiful countryside getaway. Do drive the extra miles from Copenhagen to visit this stunning part of Denmark.
It’s totally worth it.
Until next time x
Henne Kirkeby Kro, Strandvejen 234, 6854 Henne, Denmark
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